First Pedal Steel Build

[Javier Schulenburg]

Thank you! I've been liking the instrument a lot so far, though I'm still on the search for learning material (and time), so I can't quite judge just yet. Tuning stability is better than any instrument with geared tuners I've used so far (though I don't have experience with locking tuners), after changing the RKR spring because the previous one was of low quality and deteriorated to the point it became too weak to reliably return to tuning, it now has no problems with responsiveness either, other than that I've only made minor adjustments since posting. I have to say though, I didn't have any experience with pedal steel guitars before this one as they are very rare (and expensive) here, so I don't have a reference point. This one is the first pedal steel I've built but I've built a non-pedal steel as well as a banjo and a few electric guitars before this.

[Sarah Coughtrie]

Javier, this is AWESOME!!! It looks so good, and has some really clever solutions in it. Did you use any sort of building guide for this, or did you just figure it out yourself?

I would definitely take the tuner files if you get around to them. I haven't used a 3d printer before, but this style is really cool and I might have to try something similar...

[Javier Schulenburg]

Thank you! I didn't use any build guide since I couldn't find one, I went from images and at times diagrams from various sources (largely this forum) and improvised from there. I've just posted a link to a folder containing the CAD files and exported files in the "3D Files Steel Guitar Parts" thread.

[Sarah Coughtrie]

You're the best, thank you. One more question -- having had the guitar completed for a moment, is there anything about the changer that you would change? Seems there are a lot of different styles, dimensions, materials etc. of fingers and I'm hoping to whittle it down before starting my own.

And for the sake of discussion, anything else you would alter, knowing what you know now?

[Javier Schulenburg]

What I would do differently if I were to start over is making and placing the cross bar holders and setting the changer's final position before drilling into the changer fingers and base to have something to base the hole placement off of, as a few rods needed to be bent to ensure enough clearance and the second holes are inaccessible for almost all cross bars except the two closest to the changer, I'd also make the holders for the cross bars a bit thicker than 2mm though that's more for peace of mind as the direction of force makes that a non-issue for now, if I had the necessary machines to ensure the necessary precision I'd also opt for a clamping bell crank design rather than relying on screws grabbing the flat part of the cross shafts (the ones I made work fine nonetheless), additionally I'd prefer having the cross shafts ride in bushings to reduce friction especially for the lowers, with how little actual movement happens, wear shouldn't be an issue regardless, however.